The Darién Gap
Hello. It's 11:33 pm on a Wednesday and I am choosing to spend my time researching obscure topics. Before we get rolling, I’d like to tell a quick story, then tell you what the hell is up with the Darién gap.
In February of 2023 I booked a one-way ticket to Panama. But why Panama? Aside from the incredible nature and rich ecosystem, I believe the real reason to be because Panama seemed obscure and far-fetched to me. I wanted to experience something that no one in my direct circle had. I wanted to “be different”, because “I'm not like other girls”…regardless, geographically speaking, Panama is the country which marries North and South America.
Before traveling I did a bit of research and read that one could get around effectively in Panama by bus. Since Colombia was the neighboring country, I figured it would be possible to hop on a bus and go to Medellín. My thought process: cheaper than a flight, and I could also experience the scenic drive. To paint a picture, this is what the nature in Panama looks like.
Shot with my iPhone. I went on a solo jungle hike for about 20 mins, found myself knee deep in mud, panicked, then ran back to my hostel (:
I was wrong. You can definitely not take a bus from Panama to Colombia. Well first of all, there are literally no roads, but there are a few additional factors at play.
My foe, Darién gap.
If you’ve seen the show Narcos, or paid attention in school, perhaps you already know about this. I had not seen the show, nor had I been paying attention to anything in my entire life, which left me ignorant.
Moving on, the Darién gap is one of the most dangerous locations on the entire planet, no exaggeration. This area is approximately 160 kilometers (99 miles) long and about 50 kilometers (31 miles) wide, known for its treacherous terrain which includes swampland, dense rainforest, high temperatures, steep mountains, and frequent flash flooding (flooding especially rampant April - December).
A bus ride…PLEASE. So close!!
In addition, this area is notorious for dangerous wildlife like poisonous insects, anacondas, and jaguars. To place a cherry on top, the zone has a steady presence of criminal groups known for trafficking cosas like weapons, cocaine, organs, and humans, to name a few. We know the largest group with heavy control over the area as: The Gaitanistas, Urabeños, or Autodefensas Gaitanistas de Colombia – AGC.
There are also other inhabitants of the area which are composed primarily of three known indigenous communities: the Guna, Emberá, and the Wounaan. Many of these groups live in villages throughout the jungle, and are known to house migrants traveling through for money, often selling supplies throughout the migrant’s trek.
This beautiful AI generated photo may give you an idea of what the gap looks like. The snake quantity may be a bit exaggerated, but you’ve likely never been there, so how would you know?
It is estimated that nearly half a million people crossed this gap in 2023, which is record compared to the few thousand that may have crossed each year nearly a decade ago. Many of those crossing are said to be from Venezuela, Haiti, Ecuador, and to my surprise, China. This demographic information was found according to Panama’s migration records.
It’s fairly easy to dive head first into a rabbit hole on this topic. From geographical obstacles to drug-lord history, from conditions causing mass migration to the fishing and water crisis indigenous groups now face from foot traffic. There is so much to learn and so much we don’t know about what is really going on in the area.
All this being said, it was fair when a local Panamanian laughed in my face when I asked about bus routes to Colombia from Panama city. He thought I was kidding, and I went with it 100%. I have to stay cool, since I’m “not like other girls”.
Silliness aside, I highly recommend visiting both Panama and Colombia. Aside from the Darién Gap, Panama is one of the safest places in Central America to travel, and I felt extremely comfortable moving around solo, even with no international travel experience at the time. Like anything else, keep your wits about you and have fun. There are amazing people everywhere. I am very grateful for taking the leap, and I hope you can take that leap in whatever your next adventure is.
As always, thank you for reading. It means the world to me. If I can do one thing with my reckless behavior, it is to inspire others to be reckless alongside me. Just kidding..(;
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